I didn't think of that... *embarassed*  Too obvious, I guess.

And just because you mentioned moldmaking, I had a thought while driving a week or so ago that no one has ever mentioned.  And there may be a GOOD REASON that no one has done it, like maybe it wouldn't work.

But just supposing you had a bucket of paper pulp, drained it, mixed in some methylcellulose (MC)*, kneaded it well, and formed it into a mold shape around an existing shape, fairly thickly, so it wouldn't flex much when dry.  Let it dry well, then line the inside of the mold with something like plaster, joint compound or latex, and let it cure. 

Theoretically, it should work, and be cheap.  You would basically have a very thin mold with a firm PM backing.  I'm thinking that you could even use that blow-in paper insulation as your paper source ($12USD for 2+cu ft, packed).

*I wouldn't use PVA glue due to the drying issue of something that should probably be at least 1/2" / 1 cm thick.

Sue

Here is one of his posts about pulp casting. Also he works live on Blog TV occasionally. It's a great time to watch him work and ask him some questions.

http://creaturistelab.blogspot.com/2011 … masks.html

I used to do something similar with 2 kinds of paper.

1) I used photocopies of maps.  The paper does wrinkle, but if it's totally saturated (water / mc, whatever) and you press it tightly into the mold with a sponge or something the ensure that there are no air pockets in the mold, then the wrinkles aren't super noticeable. 

Here is an example.  The mold is from a lifecast of my face, and the map was a legal-sized (I think) xerox from a library copier.  The map layer is reinforced with a backing of pulp.  It was a test.  For a real mask, I'd use white pulp or do a better job of mimicking the shape of the paper map.  : )

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/x … directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/x … directlink

In the next photo I tried to do a close up of the wrinkles that are noticeable when you're looking close from the side ... but I don't noticeable when looking at the mask full on from a regular distance.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d … directlink

2) The second way I did this was use handmade paper sheets that I did using a modified tin-can technique.  I used a coffee can on a splatter screen (kitchen thing) so my paper was coffee can sized  (~ 8-10" circles?).  I pressed it, and let it dry slightly, and then pressed the sheets into the mold, and brushed on straight methyl cellulose in between paper layers.  Because the sheets of paper aren't really formed yet, they marry easily in the mold.  Pressing the paper in with a sponge is the same as technique #1. 

I apparently have no pics of those masks.  Sorry. 

The casting technique works.  Not sure about it as a mold.  Haven't thought about it much.  Cool idea.

-- b

Paper, Mathieu told me the same thing.  I read it three or four times and got the same message.  Sometimes my ADD seems to kick in when I least expect it.

Thanks for checking, though.

And he even remembered me, even though it's been at least five or six years.

Sue

Yo, B- bitchen map-masks.   Very nice.

Regarding "full sheets":

I've seen partly-dry fresh-cast paper transferred from the deckle via felt to cover an entire mold, tamped to meet the contours, then vacuum bagged.   The result was perfect.   I have never been able to find the reference material since the occasion I stumbled on it.

Similarly, cotton linter may be pressed and sponged- several professionals use this technique.

In silicon molds, I stipple whole sheets of tissue into place- building up 16-24 layers of tissue, completing in one session.

A mixture of marble dust and very moderately thinned PVA glue stippled over each layer of tissue; molds are relatively flexible- but backed with ridged mother molds.   Shrinkage is imperceptible- parts fit back into the molds that generated them.