You are not logged in.
Hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone can help me with some paper mache advice? i want to make a smooth paper mache torso. I've got a plastic mannequin of the right size and shape, but i'm not sure what the best method of paper macheing will be to create the strongest, and smoothest torso...
I have already tried once covering the plastic mannequin with vaseline and then paper macheing over the top with paper mache clay. It went on really well, dried really well, but then when I came to ease off the paper mache form, sadly it ripped in a couple of places. It is fixable, I guess with extra strips of paper mache / additional paper mache clay, but I'm not happy with the overall strength of the piece.
I have a pot of li-qu-che (paper mache liquid) which I guess will create a stronger piece, but I'm not really sure how to use it. Can I use the liquid directly on the plastic mannequin form by pouring it inside (will it then prise out successfully? and can the plastic mannequin then be used again or is it then defunct?) And is that li-qu-che then re-useable as well? I'm not really sure how it works!
Or is there another way?
I'm a bit stumped as to what to do...
Any thoughts and advice you could provide me with would be amazing and really helpful!! thanks everyone xx
Offline
One other thought (question) to add... Should I be making a latex mould out of the plastic mannequin and using that latex mould as the base for my paper macheing?? I am so confused!!
Offline
Hi Jomo,
Keep it simple! Your best bet would be to use strips of paper rather than pulp. If you lay the strips in alternate directions it will form a really strong bond. Keep building up the layers until you have a very firm model - around 10 layers would be ideal. When it is thoroughly dry you will be able to cut the casing in half and remove it from the mannequin.
You have already stated that you used vaseline as a release agent. Start off the same way again, or alternatively use unpasted paper for your first layer. Though this is what a lot of people do, I tend to avoid it as a certain amount of adhestive tends to leak into the dry paper.
When you have your two halves, tape them together with masking tape and re-papier mache the join.
When you have done this, you can play around with other methods, but if you don't want to put yourself off at this stage....try the above.
Let us know how you get on.
Offline
That's really helpful Jackie, thank you!! I shall give it a go. Just another thought, would making a base layer out of plaster of paris help which I could then paper mache over? I just wonder if that might be quicker...
Offline
Bad idea! You won't achieve what you want. Just do the paper thing and you can't go wrong......(do it in front of the TV or out in the garden if you want to relieve the monotony!) 
Offline
You can also cover the torso with thin plastic film and tape it into place so it's snug, then apply your paper strips over that. When you cut the PM shell off, it should just fall right off the form.
I would apply several layers of paper, then cut the PM form in half when it seems firm enough to hold its proper shape. Then join the two halves together and continue applying the paper trips. I have found it to be a bit difficult to apply 8-10 solid layers of paper and adhesive and then cut through them.
Sue
Offline
Thanks so much. Really helpful advice. I'll get ripping and sticking!!
Offline
I was just about to give the same advice as Sue - plastic film held in place with (quite a lot) of masking tape. Note that the masking tape must not be stuck to the surface of the mannequin.
You will probably be busy layering over it all now. Set up a small piece separately, applying the same number of layers. Something about 6" square would be enough. That will help you check how strong it is.
As Sue says, cutting through ain't easy. You need a very sharp knife. Are you worried if you mark the surface of the mannequin?
Another tip - cut through one side but not completely through the other. Of course it will be curved so you will have to cut through parts of the second side. That way it can act like a hinge. You'll just have to see how much you can leave not fully cut.
If the piece is not firm enough, just put it back in place, join with masking tape and apply more layers.
Alternate layers of bond paper with kraft paper provide great strength.
DavidO
Offline
I would fasten the plastic film with a plastic tape. Unless British masking tape is different than American masking tape (paper), the adhesive is more likely to stick to the paper bits. Having to pull on thin or damp PM is begging for trouble.
David, what is your masking tape, just so I have some idea of what I'm talking about.... ?
Sue
Offline
Our masking tape is sticky one side and a sort of strong paper/fabric the other. There are two main types, one which is strong adhesion, the other lighter and easier to pull off wallpaper, paint etc without damaging the under layer. If the paper is pasted and laid on the masking tape it will stick. When the whole lot is pulled away from the base, it will bring the masking tape and the plastic film with it but I find the plastic film and masking tape can be pulled away. I would then put one or two layers of paper on the inside to even it up if there was any risk of being on show.
DavidO
Offline
Okay, it sounds like the same stuff. Thanks!
I only use masking tape when I WANT the PM to stick to it.
Sue
Offline