You are not logged in.
First of all, I don't know if papier is how they say it in the UK, or if it is specific to "papier mache" and paper is still used normally, but I am just going to say paper for now.
I made a rabbit splicer paper mask (construction paper) from a .pdo using the pepakura viewer. If any one doesn't know of it, this mask originates from the game BioShock.
I uploaded the front and back here: http://www.imagebam.com/image/75beae84175953
click next image to see the front.
What I am aiming to do right now is to add the 3 layers of paper mache (using the water and flour formula) and then to spray paint. Then I'll add some effects which I am not sure of (blood, bullet holes, etc).
The problem is that I don't know if I should go straight to the paper mache, or make the base more sturdy with SOME THING (ideas?). I was thinking if I did one layer and let it dry, it would not be to heavy for the frame and then add the next two layers. I would have done each layer separately any ways but it is some thing to keep in mind if I don't want to ruin the shape.
I was also thinking of some thing to keep the ears in line; maybe those fuzzy pipe cleaners or paper clips?
I really don't know how to approach this in the best way so if any one can recommend some thing before I begin that would be really helpful.
Last edited by TrantaLocked (2010-06-12 09:38:10)
Offline
My first suggestion would be to make the mask out of boxboard (like cereal boxes) or cardstock (you can gluestick the construction paper to the cardstock or boxboard backing, if the construction paper is important). That way you start with something fairly sturdy.
For the ears, unless there's a reason they have to be very thin, I'd probably reinforce them with popsickle sticks or something wooden rather than wire-based. If you need them bent and reinforced, then wire is your best bet.
I find that doing a single layer of paper mache over a cardstock armature and letting it dry helps make it sturdy enough to handle the subsequent layers. I dry mine in front of a fan on low and it dries within a day, sometimes faster. And if you're using flour as part of your paste, that dries pretty hard, and will reinforce the construction paper.
The thing will be to either prop up the mask or stuff it somehow so it doesn't warp while the first layer is drying. Would it be too crazy to think about building 2 masks out of cardboard? The first you stuff with newspaper and tin foil to make it a sturdy base, and the second is your real mask, which you coat with a layer of paper mache and then place on the first mask while drying to prevent warping?
The faster it dries, the more it warps, in my experience, so letting it air dry or in a light breeze can help. Some pastes warp more than others, and it's been awhile since I used flour, so I'm not sure if it's a high-warping paste or not.
Stolloween (stolloween.com) uses flour as a main ingredient for his paste and builds over boxboard armatures alot, so I'm guessing it should be ok.
Good luck! And let us know how it goes.
-- Beth
Offline
Paper is the material, 'papier' is just the first half of papier mache, as far as I've ever seen. Papier is just French for paper.
I agree that applying your paper mask to thin cardboard would be best. The simplest way would be to glue it on while both are flat, then do the shape forming when dry. If you are going to actually be wearing this mask, gluing these two layers esp would be best using white glue rather than flour paste. The moisture given off by skin will soften the flour paste more than it will affect the white glue (white glue isn't totally moisture-resistant, but it is more resistant than flour glue). Flour glue will absorb moisture out of the atmosphere or your skin. If you live in a very humid area, I would advise using the white glue (mixed half/half with with water) for the entire mask. Flour paste will also mold in humid environments, and attract vermin. If you have access to cellulose wallpaper paste, that would do well, too.
For the ears, I would use wire, or maybe even wire mesh window screen or similar (not too heavy), extending the base of the wire or mesh into part of the mask itself to provide support. Cutting the wire or mesh off right at the base of the ears will cause a weak spot that might cause them to flop if there is much of a difference in weight.
Welcome to the world of PM!
Sue
Offline