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I have been looking at using papier mache for sculptures which incorportate lighting. Has anyone got any thoughts on how I can fireproof what I make? I would like to be able to use night-lights in some of them, so that I don't have to have wires everywhere, or to be near an electrical source to display them.
The only thoughts I have come up with so far, are 1. leave a gap at the top for the heat to escape, and 2. leave a 'sensible' gap between the paper and the flame/bulb - but how wide is a sensible gap?
Any ideas/thoughts/comments gratefully received.
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Believe there are bulbs that emit very little heat, Sue. Perhaps that's one option, among others, you might consider. Beyond that I have no suggestions. Currently, I have a lamp shade made with paper inbedded with dried herbs. The interior of the shade appears to be thin polyurethane sheeting. (Some polyurethane sheeting is produced with fire retardant.) Have no idea, however, where you might find such sheeting. Hope this has been somewhat helpful.
karen -- farrout art
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I am currently making a lampshade layering with tissue paper and am having the same trouble.
The only idea I have come up with is fire retardant spray. I have seen it being used on various design programmes. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any yet.
a lot of finishing laquers are nonflammable, the one I like to use is called "polycrylic" made by Minwax. it's not going to keep your project from catching ifre, but it might help.
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i too am seeking assistance in this area. perhaps someone knows a fireman or someone in chemistry?
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There's a product called snuffit availble from theatrical supply stores. It needs to be applied with a spray gun
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I'm trying an experiment with borax today based loosely on research done for fire retardant paint by the university of Oregon forestry dept. their mixes were all 25-35%borax by weight in white lead and linseed oil based paint mixes the study said that at least 25% by weight was necessary to be flame retardant so I'm gona try 25% by volume in raw flower water mix..... ill let you know
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ok so here are the results.......
I started with 1/3c.borax
1/3c.flour
2/3c.water
mix well
laid up 5 layers of paper strips drizzling on more mix between layers and smoothing,
borax didn't dissolve all the way , felt a little gritty, let get dry until crispy
then I held a lighter to it ...scorched in the flame area and smoldered for a few seconds after but wouldn't hold a flame and put it self out. nice
I would not deliberately endanger my life to test this out ,but I will be adding it to the walls in my paper hut. It shure wont hurt
I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR LACK OF TESTING...
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Thanks, Captain. That's helpful.
DavidO
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Excellent work captain!
I know borax is (at least was) used to coat the shredded paper wall insulation I had blown into the walls of my older home to act as a flame retardant. I asked about it because I was concerned about filling my walls with paper bits.
Never thought of mixing it up myself though, very nice.
The lighting question:
LED lights are so very efficient and the low power ones give off about no discernable heat at all and uses very little power as well. Battery life can be very long too. Consider the frequent use of your TV remote and how long they last. To see the infrared light from your remote look at it with a digital camera, most sensors detect IR. The Internet has many sources for LED's in many colors.
I would be very concerned about having a live open flame anywhere close to paper and would not do it.
Bob C.
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I'm not truly going to flame the thing ...but I will be sleeping in it ..
I found an article on "appropriate paper based technology" in there they talked about an art project in Africa turning into a furniture school,... it really got the wheels going.
I've had a years long daydream of a tiny portable hut on wheels small enough to move by bike or hand, but shelter to sleep off the ground and coral a few possessions..there are lots of examples on the web. search shelter in a cart
But it would have to not kill me in the process... and be durable.and lite enough to move ...I'm not picky ...really
IN the 1800's coach body's were pressed out p/m and linseed oil . paints have come a long way since then , there has got to be a way to do this without a hot press
And in the end paper might not be the right thing .but its cheep, light, simple, ,repairable, and kinda fun to mess with ,... cool
the A.P.T.'ERS are making couches and workbenches out of this stuff so the walls should be a no brainier ,the curved roof might be a little more trouble but I'm thinking the BIG propane tank in the back yard will work for a form ...maybe in sections .I'm going to make the unders out of 1/2"plywood and 2x4's,with wheelbarrow wheels .....
sigh... I'm getting ahead of my self ...fireproofing .not perfect but cheep and good enough, next water proofing,,,,, have seen the article here .but neckless nick was waring some unbelievably expensive varnish,thompsons water seal is lots cheaper... I'll let ya know how it goes
thats all for now .....thanks for the reply's <:3O~~~
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Hy-tech is a NASA spin-off company that sells paint additives and finishes. They sell a flame retardant paint additive called Flame Guard for $10. You can use your own paint and just mix this additive in. If you're not looking to paint the item, you might ask if it can be mixed into paste/glue and have the same results.
The Borax experiment sounds like it's the least expensive way to go. But if you want something a little more high-tech (no pun intended) this might be interesting.
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Thank you very much for taking the time to respond, sounds like it would be useful stuff but borax is $4 for several pounds and works well enough .
the show stopper will be waterproofing .I've got 3 gallons of white exterior latex kicking around ,goes on like liquid rubber,that a a freebie ,thompsons water seal is cheap enough and is probably oil based ,gona have to do small test panel,to see how it goes oil is best according to the article but will still look like paper ,paint would cover,and let me decorate ,but its gotta hold .....sigh ...oh bother
I've read the waterproofing article on this site but ol neckless nick was wearing some mighty spendy clothes ,,spar varnish goes for ,,,$60 a quart if memory serves ,just bought cheep ext.varnish for work and it was $14 a quart ,and the sun here kills that in a year ,still too much ,I'm looking at a gallon per coat and hoping for $15 or so,but it might not go
I'm going to keep the ability so shed water in mind as the as the piece takes shape that will help ,and it don't rain much here thats good too.but still need something
oh the creative juices are dancing around in tiny circles....I love this,,,<:3~~~
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Thompson's Water Seal peels off wood when exposed to sunlight. Every time I've used it, I've been disappointed. If you insist on using it, and your project is important, it would probably be a good idea to coat it every year.
Sue
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WOW ,,,thanks sue ....hmmmmm wonder if it can be painted over ,,,, gona hafta go read labels
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wire LED bulb into it. little heat and almost as bright as filiment bulbs
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