You are not logged in.
I have a hard fiberglass torso mannequin. Would I be able to paper mache this? The surface is slick, what would I need to do to make celluclay adhere to it?
thanks
Patti
Offline
Are you wanting to just use it as a mold? (I wish I had one!)
Not a lot of stuff will stick to fiberglass, it may depend on what you use for your adhesive.
THE FOLLOWING IS MOSTLY THEORY:
Now, if *I* were making a PM form from a mannequin (here I am, practically salivating at the mere thought 
), I would rush out to my local Dollar Store and see if they have SHRINK-WRAP PLASTIC. I just bought some; mine is in a 7"x7" (flat) mostly-clear plastic bag that says "Shrink Wrap BAG" with smallish drawings of Easter baskets on it, which is what it's used for, so be sure to BUY BEFORE EASTER or you'll probably have to wait until next year 
The single bag is 24"x30".
All you have to do is wrap the plastic around the mannequin parts (I would do arms/legs/torso/head all separate, then reattach the parts), then use your blow-dryer on it until it shrinks to fit the form.
Personally, I would wrap strips of PM newspaper/adhesive around the body parts to give the Celluclay something to grip. When thoroughly dry (THOROUGHLY DRY!), I would slit it with an Exacto knife or sharp (new blade) box ripper-opener knife, then glue it back together.
I might even cover all the body parts with maybe 3 or 4 layers of paper strips, THEN cut it, then tape it back together with good Duct Tape (not dollar store kind) and attach all the parts like I wanted. Then I would paint the whole thing with real shellac (dries quickly, non-toxic) before I added the Celluclay, to keep the form more water-resistant, then apply the Celluclay.
To provide some modicum of inner support, I might fill the body parts with those styrofoam peanuts, or crumpled balls of newspaper.
And before you start, figure out how it is going to be supported, so it doesn't fall over (unless it's going to be lying down anyway).
Let us know how it's going? What works? What doesn't?
Sue
Offline
CP (hope you don't mind the nickname) - What a great idea with the shrink wrap. I wouldn't have thought of that in a million years. First stop tomorrow is the dollar store! I'm still searching for whiting. I swear the store clerks think I'm making this stuff up. 
Offline
Vinca, when asking for it, be sure to give them all it's names. They may only recognize one of them.
Sue
Offline
Trixiebell, I have heard of that method before, but was unclear on the details. Are you talking about STRAIGHT dish detergent, or DILUTED dish detergent?
Sue
Offline
Thanks!
Does the straight soap affect the sticking ability for either a top surface layer of PM, or paint?
Sue
Offline
CatPerson wrote:
Trixiebell, I have heard of that method before, but was unclear on the details. Are you talking about STRAIGHT portable dishwasher detergent, or DILUTED dish detergent?
Sue
diluted i think he got this
Offline
I would cover the mannequin with masking tape. This will stick and after that you will be able to layer paper, providing the paste has at least 50% PVA content.
Offline
You can also sometimes find shrink wrap plastic for weatherizing windows and sliding glass doors (so larger sheets) at Home Depot and the like. I've also used press and seal plastic wrap as an alternative. It's not quite as detailed, but I use it when I want to copy the form, but will be tweaking and adding my own details.
Also, an alternative for using an exacto for cutting off the copy. I've started to place floral wire on the seams of the form where I want to cut it off. (Often you can see the seam lines on a plastic piece, and I just follow those.) I use the first layer of strip mache to hold it in place. Then add 4 more layers (so 5 total, typically). Then when it's dry I pull the wire up with a needlenose plier ... and it tears through the strip mache -- think like opening a pack of cigarettes. It's a little rougher than the clean x-acto blade cut, but when I don't want to run the risk of cutting the original form, and/or if the form is complicated and I want to follow the original mold lines, I do this.
You could use something other than wire (fishing line might work and give a smoother line) ... I used sewing thread first and it broke, and floral wire was the next thing I had on hand.
-- b
Offline
Wire.... BRILLIANT!
Sue
Offline