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I'd love to get some views on a strange challenge that I'm thinking of undertaking.
To cut a long story short, I want to suspend a full sized kayak (or canoe, if you prefer) from a kite. As it is just for display, it doesn't have to be a real kayak - and in fact the 20kg that a real one weighs would mean me building a new kite of unfeasible proportions.
So it occurred to me that I could use a kayak as a mould and create a papier mache kayak which would weigh a fraction of the original and not pose such a health and safety hazard (I always fly very safe).
My questions would be:
Could I create a strong enough, but light enough shell with only paper and adhesive? I am trying to avoid reinforcement because of the weight issue.
Are there any tips on adhesive types I could use if this is feasible? How dilute?
I can understand that a waterproof PVA might work, but will it give enough rigidity over such a large area?
Lastly - any ideas how much I could get away with the final weight, considering that it needs to maintain its integrity suspended from a kite line?
What about an initial shell of papier mache followed by a coating of some sort of resin to add rigidity, while still maintaining low weight?
I propose approaching the build in sections which could be joined together after drying.
As a novice I guess I'd coat the area to be worked on with vaseline and then apply the papier mache.
I had thought of suspending the kayak and then just coating the whole thing - that way I could cut it in half lenghtways with a scalpel after it drys and have two "easy" to assemble sections.
I had also thought that, because the kayak is so long, I'd put bridling points along the topside. This way I could attach lines along the length of the boat to spread the weight - I can see that a long thin papier mache thing might buckle if suspended from just one point.
I won't ask if you think this is insane 'cos I know what the answer will be, but if it works out I think that kite-suspended papier mache could be a great new spin on the medium. If it works, I'll consider making some big letters to run 3D messages up the line.
Feel free to let me know what you think.
Thanks in advance
Lenny {
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Whaoo - I've had a very similar idea. Skin on frame canoes, kayaks and biadarkas look astounding when back lite. Something about a thin membrane being your only protection.
The things that comes immediately to mind is
1. the suspension rig from the kite. The more suspension points the less the canoe will have to be structural.
2. The size of the kite - which is your lift. Maybe build the kite and attach a spring gauge while it is flying - that will tell you the lift which is your maximum weight (I think).
Laminating paper can give very strong lightweight results.
I am currently doing some experiments to see if paper can be made structural for a project to make a repilca plane completely out of paper for a local hand made paper mill. Will post any result here.
cheers
Mike
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Impressive!
You and Mike between you seem to have thought of a lot. Taking his spring load idea to test the weight bearing of the kite, you could estimate the surface area of the kayak, then weigh that area of the paper you think of using. Multiply that weight by 6 (which is probably the number of layers you need as minimum) to see if there is any chance of the kite lifting it.
In terms of strength, I doubt very much if the shape would hold without some framework. However, that framework can be very light - lengths of cardboard tubing with triangular cross-section at strategic points would probably be enough.
What about starting with a long nose section first. Don't put adhesive on the face of the paper which is in contact with the kayak. You should then be able to slide it off. Insert some framework supports and, if that works, go on to the next section.
Does it have to be full size? A smaller version could be made using sand casting. E-mail me if you want some thoughts on this.
David 
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A further thought - theory because I've never actually done it . . .
Because your sections will be quite large and thin, joining them won't be easy. An idea to keep them in alignment might be to take 4" (100mm) lengths of dowel (about 12mm). Wrap them with clearfilm, then wind six turns of pasted paper. Allow to dry. Stick them across both sides of the join of your sections. Remove the dowel; cut through the paper tube at the point where the sections join. Remove the sections from the kayak and link together by pushing the dowel through the tubes. Layer across the joints and, when dry, cut off the tubes.
Well, it might work 
David
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