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Hi there!
Firstly, I love the site and am very excited with the inspirational projects and tips posted here.
I am a long time crafts lover, and tend to focus on clothes and costumes these days, but I recently found myself deciding to make a papier mache mask as part of my most recent costume. I've done a lot of work so far, but would love some feedback and advice for my next steps.
So, I made a basic spherical head form around a "punch balloon", and it fits nicely over my head (almost looks like the "Jack in the Box" guy for any western Americans). In this process I used newspaper and a water and white glue mixture of about 2 parts glue to 1 part water. It was like watery glue, still pretty thick, I'd say.
I built this up about 7 layers thick and deflated the balloon, and it is surprisingly rigid when left to stand on its own, and resists pressure, but I suspect this is somewhat helped due to the basic physics of a sphere's structural integrity. I say this because I then made the mask's "jaw" on the same balloon, but only about 1/4 the area covered, and the jaw piece is significantly more floppy, but still solid.
From here, my plan was to coat the papier mached parts in a few layers of gesso (I specifically am using a watercolor absorbent form) watercolor paints (that's the look I'm going for), and then some form of matte sealant. I've tested the first two steps on the mask's nose (a third, separate piece), with what seems to be great results, however, the nose was made off of a cardboard base.
Here is where my concern and questions come in. While the head base has been sitting around, I have noticed that on humid days it feels just a bit more flexible than usual. This isn't surprising since it IS just newspaper, white glue (elmers) and water, but I worry about it's strength.
SO, is there a hardener that you gurus know of that I could apply BEFORE my gesso step to guarantee my dome head and jaw's hardness? It would need to be workable to take the gesso, and I hope more or less seal the mask. Also, would such a hardener need to be applied inside as well? The jaw would be fine since it will sit "outside" of the mask, but I'm afraid of getting light-headed if I'm stuck in a fumey mask. I guess I hope for something that can "sink in" through the layers. OR, would the sealant at the end, if I choose the right sealant, be enough to strengthen my mask? If so, which sealant should I use?
FYI, this mask would never be worn in the rain, but could definitely be worn in a humid summer, which means general humidity, and potentially an especially sweaty me inside of the mask's dome head. I am afraid of drooping or deformation.
Sorry for being so verbose, I'm just trying to get as much info to you as possible. I appreciate any help you can pass on.
Thanks!
-Dan
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More info is better than less.
Welcome to the board! It's always good to hear about new ideas, or older ideas approached in a new way.
If the mask is rigid enough when dry, it is absorbing atmospheric moisture, and you may just need a sealer, rather than a hardener. The only non-plastic, non-toxic sealer I know is true shellac, which is alcohol-based and non-toxic when dry (it's used to coat pills)-- don't use the polyurethane or synthetic shellac. I would apply it to the inside, maybe two coats, and let dry thoroughly before you continue. It should help to stiffen it, although that is not the primary purpose.
Very little in the way of gesso or various paints can be added to a sealed surface. Maybe acrylics, but you still might have scratching problems. Most of these are only suitable for a rather absorbent surface.
While it is a work in progress, you may have to dry thoroughly and then seal it in a bag until the next step. But make sure it's dry, or it will mold, which I'm sure you know. When it's finished, apply shellac or another kind of sealer on the outside.
Sue
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Thanks for the advice!
So would you say shellac would be the best sealer in general for a project like this? Could I seal the inside with shellac and the outside with an ultra-durable sealant like, say the "yacht varnish" featured in the Weaterproofing article?
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I really don't know how good varnish would be for wearing close to the face. It might be okay, or it might not. Maybe coating a cardboard box with it and wearing it for a while might give some indication? Or maybe a maskmaking site would say? A woodworking site?
I did run across some info a while back that indicated that all varnishes off-gas. But it was about wood, not something you would wear close to your face.
Regular varnish may be fine for just moisture, it is a sealer, after all. Marine varnish is twice the price (or more) of regular varnish around here.
Maybe the shellac would be okay for both the inside and the outside. Note: be aware that there are at least two kinds of shellac, clear and a reddish-brown color that looks like a stain was added.
Sue
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